Donnie's Little Solenoid Helper...

Which Harley-Davidson motorcycles will this work on?

Donnie's Little Solenoid Helper (or the DLSH, as it's been called) works on all Evo model Harley-Davidsons with short primary covers (usually isolation-mount engines).  This includes the FXR and FLH families of motorcycle.

You should read an entire step before performing it.  Otherwise you may run into trouble – especially when I make later notes warning you of what NOT to do in that step.

First thing to do is remove the chrome cover that covers your solenoid and starter (2 nuts – easy to do).  This will be an oval-shaped cover, NOT a round cover.  Some models have a chrome cover that encompasses the entire solenoid/starter assembly, and other models simply have a round chrome cover that covers the starter only.

As you can see in this picture, I have opted to leave my chrome cover off because at the time of DLSH installation it was my feeling that this would be a temporary solution.  That was sometime in 1995, so I did not drill into my chrome cover.  I guess that’ll be part II of the DLSH installation…<:^)  You could certainly drill a hole in the chrome cover in addition to the solenoid cover if you wish.  You’ll know what I’m talking about by the time you’re done reading this document.  Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture of the chrome cover, which is buried in my shed in a box-o-parts.

Here is a picture (Picture 1) of the starter/solenoid with the chrome cover already removed and the DLSH already installed in the solenoid cover (not to be confused with the chrome cover).  Note the DLSH screw.  This is an ordinary screw I got out of my parts bin.  You could certainly use something more aesthetically pleasing if you wish as long as the thread and journal thicknesses are the same.

Picture 1.

Here are the parts you’ll need:

Picture 2.

Pretty simple parts list, eh?  I recommend you use the same exact size screw I use here.  This screw was taken from a light switch.  It is a standard screw that comes with all light switches and receptacles.  If you know an electrician, he probably has a dozen of these lying around.

Okay…let the games begin:

Step 1.  VERY IMPORTANT!!  Disconnect negative terminal from battery.  You WILL ground out your plunger causing a nasty gash or break in your plunger spring!  Don’t be an idiot.  Removing the NEGATIVE battery terminal is absolutely necessary.

Step 2.  Remove the solenoid cover.  Unscrew the 3 phillips-head screws (which are 8mm).  You will probably have to gently pry the cover off using a screwdriver.  My cover has been on for years and thousands of miles and I was able to remove it fairly easily.  (See picture 3)

If you noticed I used the rubber boot on the terminal as a fulcrum as I twisted the screwdriver.  Of course, be careful not to screw up the rubber boot.

IMPORTANT: When you remove the cover, the inner plunger is spring-loaded. It’s not under a ton of pressure, but it may want to shoot out. Be aware that BEHIND THE SPRING is a ball bearing. DO NOT lose this bearing. DO NOT forget to replace this bearing. (See picture 4)

Generally speaking, if your bike is on its side-stand (which I imagine it will be), gravity will keep the bearing in its home.  However the bearing may stick to the spring via grease, so be careful.  Have a towel under yer scoot to catch the bearing should he try to escape.

Picture 3

Take the plunger assembly and set it aside (Picture 5).  Don’t lose the spring.  It just slides off.  We will work on the plunger when we’re done with the solenoid cover.

Picture 4

Picture 5

Step 3. With the solenoid cover removed, you must now drill a hole exactly in the center of the cover.  Fortunately for us, the Japanese have been nice enough to index the exact center of the cover with a shaded area.  Drilling this hole is the hardest part of our process.  If you have no drill skills (or no drill for that matter), you might want to have a friend help you.  The best way to achieve drilling accuracy is to start with the smallest bit you can find (1/16” is good) and work your way up to the actual hole size.  Unfortunately, I don’t remember what size drill bit I used to finish.  You can easily size a bit next to the screw to see what you need.  Remember; too small a hole is easier to correct than too large a hole.  Start with the small bit.  This way, also, if you’re slightly off-center, you can augment the hole with a larger bit.  (See picture 6)

Picture 6

Step 4.  Tap into plunger USING THE SCREW.  Don’t use a tap.  My plunger already had a hole in it, so I basically just screwed my screw into the plunger.  The screw tapped itself into the soft material.  The material is a soft metal (copper).  (See picture 5)

Step 4 assumes that you not only have a hole in your plunger, but it is the same size as mine.  Obviously if there is no hole in the top, center of your plunger assembly, you will have to drill one.  If your plunger hole is larger, obviously you can get away with using a larger screw, and hence will have to drill a larger hole in the solenoid cover to match.  If your plunger hole is smaller, you might wanna drill it out a little bit.  I wouldn’t want to use a screw any smaller than the one I used for my DLSH.

Note the center hole in picture 5.  I did not drill that.  It was there.  However I have heard rumors that some plungers lack that center hole.  If yours lacks the center hole, unfortunately you’re going to have to drill it.  Since I have not had to do this process, I can’t give you any advice other than use the same drilling technique you used to drill the cover.  I would recommend perhaps using a washer and pencil to index the center of the plunger top.

Once you have screwed your screw into the plunger, back it out and move on to the next steps.  Step 5 is optional, however I recommend doing it.

Step 5.  Servicing the plunger.  Your plunger has a copper washer that takes a lot of punishment.  (See Picture 7)  Notice how dirty and pitted the washer is?  At the time of removal, my bike started flawlessly - even with this dirty, pitted washer.  I cleaned mine up despite the flawless starting characteristics.  You should do the same while you’re in there.

Picture 7

Use a mill file like this one.  The copper is very soft, so it cleans up fairly easily.  Don’t over file.

(Picture 8)

See the difference filing makes. (Picture 9)

Here’s the finished product.  Pretty neat, eh?  This took about 60 seconds to complete.  (See Picture 10)

Picture 10

Step 6.  Assembly and installation.  Now insert the screw into the drilled solenoid cover.  (See Picture 11)

Picture 11

Add the 0-ring. (Picture 12)

Add the nut over the 0-ring. (Picture 13)

Screw the nut down onto the screw so that there's about 7/8” of screw sticking out of solenoid cover (nut is on the inside of the solenoid cover away from view - See Picture 14).  Once you adjusted the nut so that the screw protrudes 7/8", you will then screw the screw into the plunger assembly (Picture 15).

Picture 14

Now tighten the nut down snug towards the plunger.  Be careful to not mess up your screw adjustment (amount of screw that is sticking out of the solenoid cover).  Also please remember that the plunger is made of copper (a soft material), so you don’t want to go ballistic with the wrench.  It’s not hard to get to the nut if you raise the solenoid cover up to the screw head and then tilt it like this:  (See Picture 15)  Double check to make sure 7/8" of screw is sticking out of the solenoid cover like in picture 14.

Picture 15

Now you are ready to reassemble!!  Just replace the plunger assembly back into the solenoid along with the cover and tighten the 3 phillips/8mm screws.  You’re almost done!

Before you reconnect the negative terminal, push and pull the DLSH screw in and out a couple times.  Make sure it moves freely inside the solenoid cover.  If not, you’ll have to disassemble and get things lined up.  If it’s close enough, just keep pushing in and out a few times so the screw wallows out the hole.  I think I had to do this when I first installed my DLSH.

Note: When you push the DLSH in, it may feel like the plunger is sort of half stuck inside the solenoid.  This is normal.  Don’t worry about it.  This is because there’s no power to the solenoid return coil, so the jackshaft is sort of stuck half engaged.  This is no big deal and will not cause damage or problems.

Second test: Reconnect the negative terminal to the battery.  With the ignition off, but with the key in the ignition and your hand on the key, push the DLSH screw in.  It’s kind of tough, so you might wanna wear gloves.  When you push it in all the way, the starter should engage.  If the starter doesn’t engage, the screw is not sticking far enough out of the solenoid cover to facilitate full contact of the copper washer to the copper terminals inside the solenoid.  The only cure is to readjust the amount of screw you have sticking out of your solenoid cover.  If your screw is adjusted out all the way and still not allowing the copper washer to make contact with the copper terminals inside the solenoid, then you need to replace your DLSH screw with a longer screw.

IF FOR SOME REASON THE STARTER DOESN’T DISENGAGE, DON’T PANIC!  TURN THE IGNITION KEY TO THE ON POSITION!  Your bike will either start and the starter will disengage, or your bike won't start, but the starter will disengage.  I’ve only seen the DLSH get stuck once in the entire time I’ve had it.  That was because I didn’t wallow out the hole enough during the initial installation, so the screw got hung up in the solenoid cover hole - lesson learned.

Once you have the solenoid cover hole wallowed out enough to where the DLSH screw moves freely in and out, the DLSH should be ready for use!  The DLSH should give you years of reliable service.  And of course the DLSH is completely serviceable….<:^)

Here are the 3 ways you can use the DLSH:

1: As a solenoid helper: If you push your starter button in and all you get is a click, while still holding down the starter button, just give the DLSH a GENTLE tap with your foot.  (See Picture 16)  Be careful.  If you kick it too hard, you might bend the screw.  A gentle "tap" is all it needs.

Picture 16

Or while off the bike, while holding down the starter button, you can give the DLSH a gentle push with your finger.  The starter will engage.  You do not have to hold it in.  Like I said, just tap it gently.

If Murphy's Law has come into play by making your solenoid work perfectly now that you've installed the DLSH, you can "egg on" solenoid failure by turning on your headlights and ignition for like 5 minutes (maybe longer).  When the battery voltage drops enough, the solenoid will fail, guaranteed.  You can then do the “foot test” like shown above.

2: Using the DLSH on its own without using the starter button.  Yes, you can use the DLSH without the use of the start button.  Since you're not using the starter button, the screw will be much harder to push in.  Not using the start button simulates complete solenoid and/or switch and/or wiring failure.  With a completely failed solenoid, a bad switch, and bad wiring, you can still start yer scoot using the DLSH!

3:  With the ignition off, you can use the DLSH to “bump” your your engine.  This can be useful for finding timing marks, etc.

4: Helping along a low battery  If your battery is near failure, you can use the DLSH on its own without the use of the starter button.  This will allow extra amperage to reach your starter motor since you are not electrically charging the solenoid.  This may allow your bike to start when it otherwise wouldn’t.

Downfall:  Any Tom, Dick, or Harry can push that button and make your engine turn.  Of course without the key the bike won’t start.  But if someone wants to be a menace, they can be.  In the entire ten years I've had the DLSH on my bike, nobody's ever messed with it.  Generally, I don’t tell anyone about the DLSH unless I know them or get an instinctual trust vibe from them.  I wouldn't worry about it.  Someone would have to be a complete idiot to sit there and spin your motor until your battery dies.

I hope this document facilitates a flawless installation of the DLSH for whomever reads it.  If you have any questions, please feel free to e’mail me at donnie@swcp.com. Good luck!

All pictures & material Copyright © 2005 Donnie Frank